“For the first time in a long time I don’t feel bored or tired.” The Romanian woman relaxed her face and lowered her shoulders, as if finally absolving herself of a sin that had grown too heavy to bear. She looked back and smiled into the wind as the dingy raced towards our… [Read More]
“Close your eyes and open your mouth,” commanded our guide Camacho, singling me out to blindly receive the mystery treat. We were three days deep and almost four miles high on the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta in Colombia. Camacho put the coca leaves in my mouth and told me to chew; they tasted… [Read More]
For 40 years, Elaine (whom I’ve come to refer to as The Arepa Lady) has stood on a corner in Cartagena whipping up her modest arepas by flattening and shaping the maize, tossing the arepas in a vat of hot oil and serving them alongside colorful salsas in vibrant hues of green and red.
A photo diary of Colombia’s colorful seaside city, Cartagena, as taken on a recent assignment for VICE.
It’s early morning in Cartagena and my JetBlue flight from New York City already seems a distant memory as my cab zips along the narrow streets and cobble stone passageways of the city. I am headed to the Casa Santa Ana Hotel in the neighborhood of Getsemani, where socio-political graffiti and artwork is splashed… [Read More]
The first thing that catches my eye as the van pulls up to Playa Manglares are the chickens; they are roaming around in families, even climbing trees (who knew that chickens could climb trees?). The next thing to catch my eye is Playa Manglares itself–an airy, 3-level home that is just steps away… [Read More]
It is an ungodly hour in Cartagena and I am sitting on the cement steps of a cathedral-like building, watching the Old City come to life around me. Street vendors roll their arepa stands and fruit carts along cobble stone streets to their designated corners, uniformed children shuffle to school, birds chirp as the… [Read More]
Around 3pm, I will head to Playa Blanca to enjoy its white sand beaches and turquoise waters after the hoards of tourists leave. Like a well-kept secret, the way to enjoy Playa Blanca is to simply stay on the island. Here, I share my Playa Blanca cheat sheet to make the most of your visit.
It’s evening in Cartagena and I wander out into the balmy night towards a humble looking plaza in Getsemani, just steps away from the Casa Santa Ana Hotel I am staying at. Up ahead, filmmaker Jeff Cerulli and I spot a crowd of people around the Plaza Trinidad; some sitting on the stone steps… [Read More]