Katie is a guest blogger for The Pin the Map Project, you can read more about her travels on her blog, Viaxe Oeste.
If you think about it, it’s pretty amazing to picture millions of people traveling across the world every day. In fact, the International Air Transport Association estimates that around nine million people travel each day by air alone. Some of us travel out of necessity, others out of desire. Some of us professionally, others personally. Some of us are instigated by love, by hate, by money, by power, by curiosity. Whatever your reason… embrace it.
You’ll never choose the best route, but you’ll probably never choose the worst either. Someone came before you and I promise others will come after you… but no one else is you. So follow your heart but don’t leave behind your mind. Travel aimlessly in any direction or directionless with any aim. Spend 4 hours or 48 hours or 4 years or a lifetime on the road… wherever your personal adventure may be.
But should you find yourself in Southern Cambodia for 48 of those hours… visit Kampot and rent a bike, explore, visit cafes, speak Khmer, conquer the market, ask a local, drink a shake, eat amok, and just “chill out.” After spending two weeks here, I have put together a suggested weekend in and around the riverside town.
Friday evening
Arrive just in time for Bodhi Villa‘s notorious Friday night party. Each week is a different ‘theme’ but this is really just to keep the posters fresh and exciting wherever they’re hung around town. If you stay at Bodhi, try the floating bungalow in the river ($12) or a three-walled bungalow in the garden ($8). (Note: Bodhi Villa is rumored to close by mid-2015)
Other places for live music: Rusty 2, Art Bar Craze
Other places to stay along the river: Samon Village, Greenhouse
Saturday morning
Rent a bike ($1.50) and ride to town across the “old bridge” (you’ll know it when you see it), along the water, and then to the ‘Old Market’ area. Grab some carrot cake at Epicarts Café ($1.50), a coffee shake at b ($1.75), maybe a passion fruit shake at Captain Chim’s (70c). Wander around to buy some locally made gifts ($1 for a postcard, $3 for kroma scarf) or just strike up good conversation with small businesses. Dorsu is a good place to start: a clothing shop that focuses on fair wages and employment opportunity for women by selling environmentally friendly clothes ($8 for a t-shirt).
Other places for breakfast: Bodhi Villa ($1.50 for omelette and baguette), Bokor Mountain Lodge ($3.50 for crepes and coffee)
Other places to shop: Khmer Handicrafts ($9 for necklace made by handicapped artisan), Epicarts Creations ($5 for earrings made by deaf/disabled art students)
Brave the Market for Lunch
Wait until after 12 so the lunch rush has died down, but it’s worth a trip to the market. Believe any warnings you hear and do stay safe, but don’t let anyone scare you off. If you’re pick-pocketed anywhere in Kampot then it will be at the market, so be cautious to not enter with lots of money, a large bag, or disrespectful clothing (cover your shoulders and thighs).
You will probably see live fish jump out of their bowls, smell animal carcasses, wonder whether something is food or not, get lost more than three times and have to just walk toward the light to readjust your bearings, and be confused by the amount of stuff that fits inside one square block of space. BUT you will also: eat some of the most amazing food for less than $1 USD, find cheap clothing, watch gold jewelry being expertly fixed, and be thankful that you experienced a Cambodian market.
Keywords to know: bunn chjaeul (savory pancake with vegetables), amok (traditional seafood curry), bonman? (“how much?”), awkuhn! (“thank you!”),
Negotiating price: muoy (1), pi (2), bai (3), buon (4), prahm (5) prahm muoy (6), prahm pi (7) prahm bai (8) brahm buon (9) dop (10). And if all else fails… just point, smile, be polite and have fun!
Saturday afternoon
Rent a moto ($6 rental; $4 for petrol) or hire a tuk tuk (~$10) to take you up Bokor Mountain. This is the site of the modern Thansur Bokor Highland Resort, as well as the more beautiful and mysterious Old Bokor Resort ruins. Learn a bit of history and venture up to one of the best views you’ll find in the region. The trip will only take a couple hours roundtrip unless you want to add in a visit to the waterfall.
Saturday evening
Relax after a busy day with some dumplings ($2), popcorn ($1), fresh coconut ($1), and a movie at Ecran. With a larger group you can rent a private room and choose a movie ($3.50/person), or just $2.50/person will get you a ticket to the common theater. Finish your evening with an hour-long massage at Golden Hands ($6), which stays open until 11 PM and offers a beautiful ambiance and friendly staff.
Sunday morning
Wake up with a swim in the river, and a standard guesthouse ‘brekkie’ inspired by the abundance of Aussie expats in Kampot: fresh eggs with choice of bacon or baked beans, baguette from the local bakery, and a Khmer coffee (either iced with sweet milk or a hot and strong “Lao” coffee).
Sunday Day trip
Call Rany and head east. He is the friendliest driver in town, and so very proud of his clean and safe tuk tuk ([email protected]; $25 per day for 1-3 people). Rany was one of the kindest people I met while in Kampot. He will pick you up from your guesthouse and drive you through countryside villages, teach you about culture and agriculture, patiently allow you to go off and explore, and proudly drive you around with a big smile all day. Allow him to choose the best path and he will drive out to the caves ($1 entry fee), show you how to pick and eat famous Kampot Green Pepper right off the vine ($7 to bring home 100g), join you for lunch at Kep’s Crab Kitchen Restaurant ($7), show you where to swim in hidden coves, then catch sunset while you see how salt is collected at the salt fields on the way home. Arrive back in time for dinner to decide whether you’d like to stay a few more nights in Kampot or catch a bus to the next adventure.
So, what’s the total approximate cost for a weekend in Kampot? $99.95! Have you been to Cambodia before? Share your stories below!
If you are interested in guest blogging for The Pin the Map Project, visit the guest post submissions page here.
